Whakarewarewa, Rotorua

In Māori myths and legends, it is said that the Whakarewarewa thermal area was created when Te Hoata and Te Pupu (Goddesses of Fire) travelled from Hawaiki in the form of fire to relieve their brother’s chills. Along the way, they created New Zealand’s volcanoes, mud pools, geysers and hot springs. It was first occupied in 1325 and came to be an impenetrable stronghold that has never been taken in battle. 

The full name is Te Whakarewarewa-tanga-o-te-ope-taua-a-Wāhiao: The Uprising of the Army of Wāhiao. Over 300 years ago, a war party led by the warrior Wāhiao had gathered and, hidden by geothermal steam, performed a Haka (war dance) before charging into battle.

Māori people have lived at Whakarewarewa for several centuries, taking advantage of the local geothermal activity for purposes of heating, bathing and cooking. When Europeans began arriving in the 1800s, they were fascinated by the local way of life and use of the geothermal resource.

Another local attraction during this time was the nearby Pink and White Terraces, at the village of Te Wairoa. Visitors from far and wide made their way to New Zealand to experience what was being referred to as “The 8th Wonder of the World”.

The Guides of Whakarewarewa

As tourism developed in the area, guiding became a formalised profession for local Māori guides. Several Māori guides became international personalities in their own right, guiding European visitors through geothermal attractions with humour, charm and navigating deftly between English and Māori languages and culture. Some of these guides included:

Sophia Hinerangi (c1830s-1911)

Sophia Hinerangi, sometimes known as Te Paea (Tepaea), was the principal tourist guide of the Pink and White Terraces at Lake Rotomahana before the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886, and later guided at Whakarewarewa. Read more about her and her work here. 

Mākereti Papakura (1873-1930)

Mākereti Papakura was an internationally known tourist guide at Whakarewarewa thermal valley during the early days of New Zealand tourism. She was also an entrepreneur, an influential advocate for Māori, and an author, producing the first extensive published ethnographic work by a Māori scholar. Read more about her and her work here. 

Susan Te Aporo Hunt (c.1840-1951)

Holder of No.3 Guide Certificate, Susan Hunt had a profound influence on the future of guiding. She started before World War I and guided right through the boom years, retiring at the end of World War II. Four of her daughters, Ellen, Kathleen, Tina and Kaa, also became guides. Susan was particularly fond of Guide Rangi whom she taught the rules, technique and the tricks of her calling. During World War II, Susan and Rangi virtually took charge of guiding while other guides were doing essential work in Rotorua Hospital or bringing up children. Susan lived to be 90. (From John Cresswell's 'Hot Lakes Guides'.)

Bella Te Hoari Papakura (c.1870-1950)

Bella was a famous guide at Wakarewarewa, and was a sister to Maggie Papakura, who was also a guide. Today, a small carved wharepuni (house) at Whakarewarewa still stands, which was built for Bella by her husband. Through her guiding career, Bella worked as a mentor to a number of Whakarewarewa guides. She and her sister also played a role in bringing Māori song and dance to the world stage, starting a ‘Māori Dance Troup’ to entertain village visitors.

Eileen Rangiriri Winiata (c.1880-1968)

Eileen, also known as Rangiriri, was the daughter of William Strew and Mareti Watene. She was a guide at Whakarewarewa, Rotorua, around the 1910s, with her twin sister, Georgina.

Georgina Te Rauoriwa Warbrick (c.1880-1953)

Georgina was the daughter of William Strew and Mareti Watene and twin sister to Eileen. Georgina was married to Alfred Patchett Warbrick (1860-1940). She was a concert-party performer and well-known guide at Whakarewarewa. Died in August 1953 at Rotorua aged 73 years.

Minnie Waitohi Corbett / Minnie Eparaima

"Many guides became renowned as 'characters', either because of their sense of humour or for their eccentricity. The greatest of these was undoubtedly Minnie Waitohi Eparaima. For more than half a century she was engaged in guiding, souvenir selling and tickets. Her particular forte was the organisation of concerts and in this she was Rangi's chief aide. Before World War II she had her own concert party which performed not only for tourists in Rotorua, but also in the competitions at the Ngaruawahia Regatta. ... Minnie was completely without dress sense, a state of affairs which produced light intervals at solemn occasions and sometimes disasters when they were least expected." (From John Cresswell's 'Hot Lakes Guides'.)